The Darrans
Tutoko from Leader Creek by Pat Prendergast
(painting is for sale here)
The Darran Mountains of northern Fiordland are a popular and important rock climbing area because of their accessibility and excellent diorite rock.
Tutoko (2746m) dominates the northern part of the range and has routes from various direction which are generally long and rather difficult. Mt Madeline (2537m) can be climbed from the Tutoko valley.
To the west, Mts Grave (2230m) and Pembroke (2000m) are reached from tributaries of the Harrison River.
In the central and southern Darrans the mountains are relatively low (few are over 2200m) and there is little glaciation. Bivvy rocks are usually used as climbing bases. Many excellent and difficult rock climbs are available, and the peaks have easier, though sometimes intricate, routes as well. The country is generally very steep and there is snowgrass on many climbs. Mt Te Wera (2326m) which is rather inaccessible, is the highest of the central Darran peaks.
In the Lake Adelaide area, Sabre (2167m) is the usual objective.
Mts Crosscut (2320m) and Christina (2502m) are usually climbed from Homer Hut in the upper Hollyford valley. Mt Talbot (2110m) is another fine peak in this area.
To the south of Milford Sound is the well-known Mitre Peak (1692m) and the Llawrenny Reaks (1933m). Sheerdown Peak (1871m) overlooks the Milford Road.
South of the upper Hollyford valley are Mt Moir (1965m), Pyramid Peak (2325m) and others.
Guidebooks
The Darran Mountains
Moir’s Guide South
Maps
Topo50 series: sheets CA08, CA09, CB08, CB09
Maps can be purchased from Mapworld who also offer NZAC members a 10% discount.
NZAC members receive a 25% discount on maps purchased through Federated Mountain Clubs (FMC).
