Code of Conduct for Rockclimbers

Permission

Before entering other peoples' land permission must be obtained. Any agreements made must be strictly followed. Accept that sometimes you may be refused permission to enter the land because of current circumstances, eg. family gathering, lambing/calving.

Impact

Any rockclimbing must have the lowest possible impact on the crag and environs. Points to note are:

  • No climbing on special areas such as burial grounds, artefact sites, stalagmites and stalactites, areas of rare wildlife or other such identified areas.
  • Rockclimbers should limit their activities at a crag to the cliff, its top and its base, preserving areas such as native bush and reserves for all.
  • Keep tracks to a minimum.
  • A crag is a small area and should not be used as a toilet.
  • All rubbish should be taken from the crag, including biodegradables.

Route Preparation

This should be done to ensure minimum impact while ensuring the route is safe to climb. Talk to the landowners before cutting or removing vegetation. It is important that the route be prepared properly so the job does not have to be done twice. All ropes, slings etc. used in cleaning must be taken when leaving the crag, as these are often unsightly.

Fixed Gear and Anchors

In some areas climbs may have to be equipped with bolts or pegs. It is stressed that this gear is placed only for safety reasons. Where possible use the same belay point for several routes. At bolt station belays, the double bolt and chain set-up is the minimum standard. Bolts, where necessary, should be placed using the following as a guide:

  • Make every bolt safe to use.
  • Use the best or most appropriate type for the rock.
  • Use care when considering bolt placements - note the distance between bolts, and ease of clipping.

Naming Routes

The prerogative of the first ascentionist. Care should be taken not to offend others with the selected name. It is not worth incurring the wrath of the local iwi, ranger, farmer or landowner for the sake of a crude or derogatory route name. This can cause a crag to be closed.

Behaviour

Remember that your voice carries some distance from the cliff, sometimes far enough to be heard by landowners and other land users who may be upset by obscenities and offensive phrases uttered in the heat of the moment on a climb. Before stripping off for a swim, consider if nudity might be offensive to landowners. It sometimes is!

On a farm

  • Leave gates as you find them (open or shut).
  • Cross fences at stiles preferably or at strainer posts, and cross locked gates at the hinged end.
  • Leave your dog and gun at home.
  • Do not distress or molest the stock.
  • Before driving across farmland you must check with the farmer.

Cultural Considerations

Where crags have special cultural significance, cultural sensitivities and any issues arising must be resolved before climbing commences. In particular, aspects such as burial grounds and tapu on Maori land must be addressed. Relevant specialists may need to survey the crag.

Communications

Maintain good communications. A few minutes of polite discussion can mean an uninterrupted day's climbing, whereas a few hurled insults can result in no further access for climbers ever. Be courteous and respectful.

Camping

Camp only in designated areas and keep a tidy camp. Completely extinguish any campfire after use.

Safety

Inherent in climbing is an element of risk. Some flaunt it, others respect it, some choose to ignore it. In the final analysis you are responsible for your own safety. Nobody has to do a particular route. If a route is too necky for you, back off.

Climb as safely as possible. Beware of loose rocks; they cause considerable damage to people and equipment when dislodged. Some crags are notorious for having loose rocks on the routes and on access/descent tracks. Wearing a helmet could save you from serious injury.

All things being equal, softer rock is more likely to have protection fail; keep this in mind when placing wires at some of the softer rock crags. Treat all fixed gear with suspicion - you do not know its history.

Access to crags is a privilege not a right!

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