Darran Mountains Air Access
A large number of responses were received to the article published in the Climber magazine and those received by email are available below for those interested...
Email, 3/8/03
In response to the Air Access to the Darran Mountains article in the Climber # 44 Winter 03.
I am against additions to the current status of air access to the Darran mountains.
Mountain routes still exist unclimbed in the Darran Mountains because they are accessible to people whom have the imagination and are prepared to put in the toil to get there. It is not the lack of air access that makes them exclusive. NO landings should be permitted at Lake Turner or Te Puohu Glacier. The view looking down onto Lake Turner from Mt Miline is awesome made more so by the realisation that a major effort is required to get there. Remoteness and the weather have so far protected large areas of the Darrans as wilderness.
I agree with think Richard Thompson statement that increased air access "will change the nature of the climbing experience for every one and will therefore reduce the range of climbing opportunities that the Darrens offer". I have spent some time climbing in the Darran Ranges in the summer and considerable longer dreaming and talking about visiting the remoter areas, which I will do one day! I will admit that I have flown out of Turners Biv when other members of my party were lured by the imminent departure of an empty helicopter. I have also used air access in other parts of the country were it is currently permitted.
I do not support the NZAC lobbying for an increase in air access. Are there those in the club that think the Darrens are under utilised? The NZAC should consider very carefully the future impacts and precedents set in lobbying for increased air access. To say that increased air access helps "less fit or able parties to have a chance of climbing the routes" is the antithesis of moves to protect wilderness areas and exclude air access from other areas. I have no sympathy for these climbers. We all have limitations. Fear,age mortgages, families or short holidays are not good reasons to water down a wilderness area. Besides if we are not fit/able enough to get in how will we get out when the chopper won't come? I imagine these areas are seldom visited and that human impact is currently minimal. More visitors will mean more shit and rubbish. If these proposals go ahead I assume there will be a sudden influx of people to these areas keen to use power drills and waste will be left behind.
People should read books and recent articles on traverses of the central Darrans and realise that the cherished dreams and ambitions of people will be changed for ever and a precious mountain wilderness lost.
I would like to think that these same areas will still only be available to those prepared to walk in if in 18 years time my son Louis wishes to do so.
Email, 25/7/03
I am strongly opposed to any additional air access into the Darrans. Lets keep one little corner of our alps free from commercial activity. I hope the alpine club opposes any consents for air access to the central Darrans.
Email, 16/7/03
I'm writing in response to the article in the climber about air access to the Central Darrans. I am totally opposed to opening any more landing sites in the area. Is it two much to ask, having one area in new zealand that gives a true wilderness experience for those who revel in the challenges of hard access to even harder climbing!? To fly into the Darrans is to be heading into the area with the wrong attitude.
Chopper pilots show no responsibility for dropping people off other that taking the money. I was quite perplexed with the writing in the article that states "also allow less fit or able parties to have a chance of climbing the routes" if someone is flying into the area because they lack the skills or fitness to get in there on there own means, they aren't going to stand a chance of getting out of the Central Darrans if bad weather stops the chopper from getting back to them. Also the chance of finding good shelter in a storm in the area is zero! trust me I've been stuck in there & it was only through having a great deal of knowledge of the area that we got out safely. it would be almost impossible to send a rescue crew into the area in anything other that perfect conditions. The nature of the climbing itself is at the top end of the scale & there isn't much chance of any easy routes in the area.
It makes me question who has been pushing for the air access to be opened up? It seems to me that a selected few are looking for easy access to tick off some winter ice routes in the area as the idea of ski touring in the area's is incredibly limited & I couldn't think of a worse place for some of NZ's largest avalanche zones.
As a member of the Southland NZAC I would be most disappointed if the Alpine Club was to support this proposal.
Email, 8/7/03
I am writing to express my concerns with the proposed changes to air access to the Central Darrans, as invited in the Climber.
I have been a regular visitor to Lake Turner and other nearby areas in the last years (Probably the most frequent visitors to these areas in the last decade). Our trips have been of an exploratory nature, inspired by hearsay, tales of immense walls, unknown faces, difficult access. Our objectives, and successes have been First ascents of: S Face Milne, S Face Mahere, E Face Patuki, S Ridge Milne, E Face Tutoko, S Face Alice All these have been on superb rock in superb situations and have been of a 'pioneering' nature. We have also made a descent of the Pakihaukea Pass to Tutoko valley and discovered a natural rock bivvy site on Karetai Col, which is one day's hike from either Turners Biv or the road via the Donne valley. One of the huge appeals of the area is the relatively difficult access, remoteness and untouchedness, (Although in a global perspective, the access even by foot is amazingly easy, given the quality and remoteness of the area). Compared to climbing in more popular areas with open air access it is an absolute blessing to be able to climb, live and enjoy days on end without constant aerial bombardment, unique in New Zealand.
During all these visits I have never encountered another person, with the exception of a party on the Turners Biv side during a walk out. The ONLY signs I have had of any previous or current human activity have been helicopters making overhead passes or illegal landings, on the Te Puoho Glacier, and directly below Turners Pass on the Donne side. On a trip some years back to the Adelaide region, I had an incident with a helicopter coming absurdly close to a face that I was soloing, very much endangering my life, and continuing on to land by the lakeside.
My opinion is that access to climbing objectives is already plenty sufficient. The Plateau and Turners Biv provide excellent air access to within a days hike of everything North of Karetai. South from here can equally well be accessed by a number of routes, also a days hike, from the Hollyford, Adelaide or Donne. Considering that we view this area as a 'wilderness' area, a days hike to get to anywhere is surely accessible enough. Sure, having a landing site at Lake Turner would be personally very convenient as I have a number of other objectives in the region and will certainly be returning frequently.... But NO WAY do I support a landing site there "because it's there". This is a superbly isolated, unexplored, but still accessible area of wilderness, crammed full of unclimbed faces. Please, lets keep this area wild. Air access will mean drills and bolts, already there are enough illegal landings, without providing the incentive to bend the rules even further ... if more landing sites are opened up, albeit restricted, there will be an inevitable increase both in legal and illegal landings, in the number of landing sites used and in the periods they are used for, the message being that access is easing and rules softened. My opinion on the contrary is that we should be sending a clear message to the air operators that access is being tightened up and that travesties will be reported and followed up.
Next to the superb nature of the objectives there, the single greatest appeal of being in this area is the isolation and the fact that it is a challenge mental and physical just to get there, and not of the fatness of one's wallet. There are SO many other areas and objectives in New Zealand and in the Darrans that are accessible to the "less fit or able" parties. Call me un-PC but no wheel chair access here please... it will more likely open it up to the "can't really be bothered" parties ... and another argument against this is that surely we must not rely on air transport, especially in areas with such fickle weather and difficult route finding. If people are not fit or able enough to walk in, that also means they are not able to get out on their own should conditions crap out below safe flying levels, which we all know is a frequent occurrence here.
Regarding the specific proposals, my feelings are:
- People access Turner's Biv year round. It has a history, and it works. Why change it?? In my opinion, no one will use the Lake Turner or Te Puoho sites off season, the ski touring being of little objective appeal, and certainly in the case of the lake, highly dangerous. The winter climbing here is largely unknown but probably extremely tenuous and I would be surprised to see air access creating any more development over winter months. I don't believe it will significantly increase the numbers of climbers accessing the area, but I do believe it will flash the green card to scenics and walk-abouts... a practice that is already blatantly flogging the rules. Keep Turner's Biv landings open year round, but restrict numbers of flights per day.
- Ngapunatoru Plateau also has a history of landings, and provides excellent climbing access to most climbing objectives North of Tutoko. It is a fantastic location for scenics and walk abouts, being removed from any actual climbing objectives. Year round landings here seem fine to me, restricting numbers I am in favour of, but in order to keep other areas tourist free, I would be willing to accept more landings here. Tutoko valley is anyway full of air traffic, and I don't believe landings here will further impact.
- Lake Turner is a unique and fragile environment. For the serious climber, which one is obliged to be in this area, it is a straightforward access already. Allowing landings here will only further the tourist industry and give another inch to be taken a mile. Don't allow any landings here.
- Te Puoho I am less clear about, but my feeling is that opening landings there will favour tourists far more than climbers. Already it is a frequent landing site for tourists. It is a very aesthetic and ambient landing site for walk about tourists, and has a number of highly desirable climbing possibilities. Does that justify making one of the most pristine and undisturbed alpine areas of the country accessible to all who can pay?? My feeling is no. The price to be paid should be effort and determination and the adventure spirit, the prize is experiencing the raw wilderness and personal achievement, to be where only few can be. Landings here would impact on anyone who had got themselves there in a hugely negative way, as happened when we were climbing on Karetai.
Email, 8/7/03
As a member of the Alpine Club I was surprised to learn that the club is supporting increased air access to the Darrans. Why? What is the position of 'our club' on this one?
I think it's a bad idea because it can ruin an alpine experience and once it's been granted, there's no going back.
As a club member, how can I register my disapproval on this issue?
Email, 6/7/03
I have some concerns about the clubs' policy of supporting changes proposed in the National Park Management Plan regarding helicopter access into the central Darrans.
Before I outline these I would point out that I have visited the Lk Turner / Te Puoho area for all of the last four years during summer, twice by walking in and three times by flying into Turners Bivvy and crossing over to Lk Turner from there [and walking out]. During that time I have not met any other parties camped in either of these places.
Firstly, I see very little wrong with the current state of affairs, except to note that the real aircraft issue is that of scenic flights which constitute most [by far] of the air traffic in the region. Access to Lk. Turner is possible with a 5 -6 hour hike from Turners Bivvy; it's not particularly inaccessible at the moment and a big day from the road up the Donne valley to Karetai col [above Lk Turner] is also an option. The Te Puoho is also achievable in a day \ day and a half from the Hollyford road.
Restricting landing access to Turners bivvy at any time achieves nothing because the Tutoko valley is full of air traffic anyway. This is an established practice to a popular place in an area of already heavy air traffic - we should be advocating that year-round access stays and a max. of two flights a day would reasonable.
My thoughts on the proposed new landing sites are as follows:
Allowing flights into an area when no-one has ever, as yet, been there in winter on foot seems a bit arse about face; historically the norm would be
the other way round. Ie; when there is pressure from numbers there might be some consideration given to air access - but when there's no pressure for winter access anyway, why go and put it into the management plan? In winter, there may be good ski touring but I bet no-one goes in and does
it; the Lake Turner basin would have no safe havens in a big storm. It is a very serious area and there is no-one wanting to do it.
So, the proposal to limit visits to the 'off season' only is silly. Apart from being pointless, it will assuredly open the door for those 'up to two flights a day' to be used by helicopter companies for 'walk arounds', just like they do now on the Ngapunatoru Plateau. This would surely happen because it is already, albeit illegally. Once access is allowed for 'climbers / skitourers only' it will invariably extend to other users. Once this happens it is unlikely to be reversed. Since when has the Alpine club been an advocate for the rights of bus based tourists to walk off their lunches in sensitive wilderness areas?
From a climbing perspective, I really value being able to go to a place that still is 'au natural' / 'non-ferrous', call it what you will. Despite the wealth of natural lines to be climbed, the only real way to keep an area free of bolted lines is to make people carry their drills in. There's tons of stuff to go at elsewhere with a pack full of technology, it would be encouraging to see the Alpine Club put a stick in the sand for a truly wild place like this one.
From a more personal perspective, I also value the untouched feel of the area. It's a privilege to be able to go to such a high quality area and although it's a bit of an effort, that's the only way it's going to stay like that.
My feeling is 'if it ain't broke don't fix it'. Access is tolerable to these areas now and it can only enhance the quality and potential of the area to keep it that way - a bit of work...
I would appreciate it if you could pass my thoughts on to Phil Doole and any other of the clubs officers exercising themselves over this issue...
Email, 3/7/03
I would like to lodge my opposition to any new landing sites in the Central Darran mountains.
I've been through the Central Darrans twice. The first time from Turners Bivvy then from an illegal landing into the Lake Turner area. By far the most satisfying trip was when we approached the Central Darrans from Turners Bivvy. The extra effort reaching the Lake, then up Lyndsays Ledges into the Te Pouho Glacier made the trip intensely satisfying. I feel blessed to have walked over that hallowed ground.
I agree we had to have a high level of fitness but more importantly reaching the Central Darrans required a higher level of commitment and self-reliance than fitness. By allowing air access into this area, what is already a tenuous grip on this type of mountain experience in New Zealand will be further eroded. As far as being accessible to less fit and able folk, approaching Lake Turner from Turners Bivvy isn't a death defying grunt. Lake Turner isn't much more difficult to get to than Lake Adelaide, yet the North Buttress of Sabre is climbed regularly, mostly by climbers of average ability. I think if the route from Turners Bivvy was described better (maybe we could be less elitist with the Darrans guidebook, actually giving a good description) then less 'fit and able' climbers would be able to reach it. Once at Lake Turner, it's a 'hands in pocket stroll', up Lyndsay's Ledges to the Te Pouho. I'm not being an understating hard man in saying - it is easy! Exposed but easy. Also Dave Vass is quietly confident a straight forward route up the Donne River onto the col between Karetai and Patuki could be found. Should we not attempt to find such a route before deciding to use the helicopter. As Richard Thompson says "Once an area is opened to air access it is really hard to go back again... " The Aspiring area is testament to this, damned shame.
Do we need easier access to more rock, when we haven't utilised what rock we do have? There is plenty of high quality rock being found all the time outside the Darrans area. Twin Stream, Remarkables, the North side of Mt Aspiring, East Face of Popes Nose (you can fly to the bottom of it and nobody has made a second ascent). What about Chinaman's Bluff, even in the North Island where Paul Rogers has been raving about excellent crack climbing on the slopes of Mt Ruapehu. What about all the new routes Bill McCleod has put up in the Huxley and Hopkins areas. Have any of these mostly moderately graded routes seen a second ascent? The alpine areas around Homer Hut are, despite relatively easy access and the use of a power drill, still not climbed out. The reason for this - only Murray Judge and his sidekicks are actively putting up routes. The North Face of Moir has acres of perfect rock. If access to the base of the cliff in the Cleddau Valley, where Dan Meecham and Gwyillam Griffith Jones climbed was sorted out, we could have our own miniature version of El Capitan, just off the Milford Road. My point being, we haven't taken full advantage of the rock we've got. With such a small climbing population are we likely to do so in the next thirty years? I think we're being greedy in wanting 'easy' access to the Central Darrans. Possibly one of the reasons more people don't go into the Central Darrans by foot, is that in the last 20 years we have become so used to helicopter access. It's part of our climbing culture, much like the gondola in Europe.
On an ecological note, I know climbers who fly in take much more food than they need and are lazy about taking their rubbish out. Lake Turner is a 'Garden of Eden', with little room for camping, how long would it take for every rock to have faeces under it. Also I know bolts would invade this place when there is plenty of scope for naturally protected climbing Dave Vass and Rich Turner have proved this in the last two summers. Around Homer in the Lake Adelaid Basin (where there is still acres of unclimbed rock) and down at the Chasm is where the bolts should stay.
If air access to the Central Darrans does happen, using the proposed dates from 1 May to 30 November then I'd be in favour, because nobody would go in there. May is getting too cold for rock climbing and nobody is going to go there ski touring, unless they're sick of living. There is very limited ski touring potential on the Te Pouho and virtually none around Lake Turner. You'd probably be avalanched fairly quickly around Lake Turner, there is no safe terrain. Possibly, there are currently four mountaineers who would go in for winter mountaineering. Once again we haven't dealt with the winter climbing potential in the Darrans as it is.
Finally, before we go adding to the noise pollution in the Darrans, maybe as a club we could be proactive and do something about the scenic overflight noise. On a sunny day on Gertrude Saddle you could be forgiven for thinking you were in the flight path of an international airport. This noise not only affects climbers on Barrier, Talbot, etc but walkers wanting to experience in peace, their own slice of hallowed ground.
Email, 3/7/03
I just want to register my opposition to increasing flying in the Darran's we need to take the great leap backwards in some areas.
Email, 2/7/03
No way.
No flights into the Te Puoho or Lake Turner. I have been to both these places, it is a wilderness area and should remain so. We have so much to lose by allowing helicopters into these areas, once they are in, there is no going back. If less fit or able people fly in, and the weather craps out, they will be stuck. It's hard enough getting out when you know the way!
Flying in to go ski touring? I suppose you could ski across Lake Turner and back, the chances of being caught in an avalanche anywhere else in these areas is high.
No way.
Email, 2/7/03
As an alpine club member and a recent Darrans visitor I wish to signal my concern at any increase in the number of landing sites in the Central Darrans. I feel that the club should not support any such proposal as it will lead to the immediate degradation of leisure pursuits in this area. There are already numerous areas in the Alps where those that wish can fly to, often with multiple landing sites close to huts and a range of climbs. It is time that the club discussed the desirability of a walk-in ethos for certain areas. Surely we are not so detached from the roots of our climbing heritage that we need to engineer air access to every spot of interest.
Please consider this as a firm no to any liberalisation of the status quo as regards air access.
P.S On a recent visit to Turners Biv I found Helos to be a right pain and was 'inspected' by one while abseiling over a bluff, a fate that awaits us if we go for more landing spots.
Email, 2/7/03
I am strongly opposed to the proposed changes to air access in the Darran mountains, to include two new landing sites in the Central Darrans. I am very upset that the Alpine Club would support this increased access, which to my mind goes against everything that the club stands for. That is, the conservation of the wilderness experience SOMEWHERE in the country for those people willing and able to get to it.
I have climbed regularly in the Darran mountains for many years now, and, apart from the beautiful alpine rock, the most appealing aspect is the sense of wilderness and aloneness the place engenders. This has often been spoilt for me when wandering over Adelaide saddle and being buzzed closely by tourists in a small plane snapping photos. PLEASE don't support the creeping encroachment of civilisation into our most remote and beautiful areas.
In terms of better access for climbers, there are countless numbers of routes close to the road in the Darrans, and enormous potential for new routes waiting to be developed if people would put in the time and the effort. Climbers do not need to be flown into ever more remote areas to find technical rock. Leave these areas for the more adventurous and capable people, as there are so few remote places left.
Email, 2/7/03
I read with much concern about the proposed air access changes that the club is supporting, in the Darran Mountains.
I personally do a lot of climbing in the Darrans, it is without a doubt my favourite alpine region in the southern alps. I have not visited the central Darrans but have been looking forward to the occasion for many years now. The beauty of this area, as with many other remote little corners of the southern alps is that one can find a very real type of wilderness and yet at the same time be not more than a day or so from the road end. This is
incompatible with any type of air access which will change the very nature of the environment so many of us are seeking.
It pisses me off that I need to write a letter such as this, as I feel the club ought to be protecting the rights of climbers to enjoy the southern alps,on the mountains own terms and as they are. Instead it would appear the club is trying to downsize the mountains to bring them within the abilities of the laziest, most unfit, and most inept climbers while at the same time detracting from the experience of those who have the motivation and energy to go and seek out these remote areas.
The Darrans provides many opportunities for the so called "less fit or able parties" that the article in the most recent climber magazine mentions. Take for example Gertrude Saddle, Barrier Knob, Barrier, Talbot, Moirs Mate, Moir .... the list goes on and on... Heaps of opportunities for alpine walking, general mountaineering and technical alpine rock climbing. At the moment too, the Darrans provides the opportunity for climbers to take all of these activities to a different level by taking them in to a more remote corner of the range, namely the central Darrans. The club should not support taking this away from us!
We don't need to lower the mountains to the lowest common denominator, so that every peak and every climb is attainable by every climber. If people are not fit enough or too lazy to get there, tough, climb closer to the road. If people don't think they are able enough to be in the central Darrans, is it not better for them to build on their experience and abilities, in order to be capable in such an area. Flying these folks in to the central Darrans doesn't make them any more competent or ready to be there, all it means is that they won't know the way out, or be provided with the opportunity to turn around, if they find they are not comfortable on the access route. Remember that in the Darrans access routes provide many people
with problems and that relying on flying out from these mountains is foolish. Better I think for people to have their epics and nights out on the easily accessible (by Darrans standards) classics like Bowen Allen Corner, rather than on the East Face of Karetai or some ice climb in the middle of winter in the Te Puoho glacier.
We have air access in many regions of the southern alps, and I am the first to admit that I use this service regularly. But what we as Mountaineers, Rock climbers, Ice Climbers, Trampers, Guides etc have to ask ourselves is, where we want this to stop. Once there is a precedent of air access to an area, there is no going back. At Mount Cook, Westland, Aspiring, Turners Biv etc etc we all have to live with aircraft weather we like it or not. But do we want this to be the case everywhere? Or should we preserve a few magical spots, that are after all usually only a couple of days walk away from the road, for those that are prepared to put that effort in, in the search for a small, quiet and lonely piece of wilderness?
Please keep me informed on the clubs stance on this issue. I will resign from the NZAC if they continue to support the proposed changes.
Email, 1/7/03
I have drifted a bit out of touch and only just found out (via NZ Climber) about current developments re air access to the Darren's.
I am very strongly opposed to air access to Turners Biv at all, let alone extending air access to other sites too.
I would like to take this up directly with Dept. of Con. or whoever - what is my most useful avenue? Minister? PM?
Not sure if I will just be dismissed as an interfering outsider or not but I really love the place and am appalled and can't just sit by. But then maybe there might be some benefit a tourist objecting? (I stopped counting after about my 16th trip to NZ, so I figure the NZ govt/economy has got a dollar or two out of me over the years so that ought to be good for something).
