Rockclimbing Plan and Policy

Aim: Oversee NZAC activities in the rock climbing arena so to enhance the standing of the Club, provide member benefits and advocate for climbing issues.

Convener: Bruce Dowrick

Committee: Kester Brown, Mark Watson, Guillaume Charton, Kristen Foley and Matthew Bennett

Strategic Objectives:

• Run an open and well publicised rock climbing fund to help with rebolting, crag development or other projects which are of benefit to climbers.
• Encourage the growth of sport climbing and related competitions.
• Ensure that bouldering is supported by an annual competition and other events.
• Provide information and support as an advocate for access to crags on both private and public land.

Current Projects and Key Results:

• Set up new application form and webpage for the rock climbing fund.
• Ensure existing fixed protection is safe & long lasting and high standards of bolt placement are facilitated.
• Support the development of new crags to agreed criteria.
• Distribute the Bolting fund to agreed criteria.
• Work towards providing administration support for the NZSF.
• Work towards closer ties with the organisers of the annual bouldering series.
• Set up a program for the production of crag signage with NZAC branding for the clarification and promotion of access arrangements to crags around the country.

Code of Conduct for Rock Climbers:

Permission

• Before entering other peoples land permission must be obtained.
  
• Any agreements made must be strictly adhered to.
• Accept that sometimes you may be refused permission to enter the land because of current circumstances e.g. family gathering, lambing/calving.

Impact

• Any rockclimbing must have the lowest possible impact on the crag and environs.

Points to Note:

• Not climbing on special areas such as burial grounds, artifact sire, stagmite/tites, areas of rare wildlife or other such identified areas.
  
• Rockclimbers should limit their activities to the cliff, its top and its base, preserving areas such as bush and reserves for all.
  
• Keep tracks to a minimum.
  
• A crag is a small area and must not be used as a toilet.
  
• All rubbish to be taken from the crag, including biodegradables.
• Care for native bush.

Route Preparation

• This should be done to ensure the minimum impact while ensuring the route is safe to climb.
  
• Talk to the landowners before cutting or removing vegetation etc.
  
• It is important that the routé be prepared properly so the job does not have to be done twice.
  
• All ropes, slings, used in cleaning must be taken when leaving the crag, as these are often unsightly.

Fixed Gear, Anchors

• In some areas climbs have to be equipped with bolts or pegs. It is stressed this gear is placed only for safety reasons. Where possible use the same belay point for several routes. At bolts station belays, the double bolt and chain set-up is the minimum standard.
• Bolts, when necessary, should be placed using the following as a guide:
  
  • Make every bolt safe to use.
    
  • Use the best and most appropriate type for the rock.
    
  • Use care when considering bolt placement e.g. distance between, ease of clipping.

Naming Routes

The prerogative of the first ascensionist. Care should be taken not to offend others with the selected name. It is not worth incurring the wrath of the local tribe, ranger, farmer or landowner for the sake of a crude or derogatory route name. This can cause a crag to be closed.

Behavior

• Remember that your voice carries some distance from the cliff, sometimes far enough to be heard by land owners and other land users who may beoffended by obscenities and offensive phrases uttered in the heat of the moment on a climb.
• Before stripping off for a swim, consider if nudity might be offensive to land owners. It sometimes is.
• On a farm leave gates as you found them (open or shut), cross fences at stiles preferably or at strainer posts, and cross gates at the hinged end.
  
• Leave your dog and/or gun at home.
  
• Do not distress or molest the stock.
  
• Before driving across farmland you must check with the farmer.

Cultural Considerations

Where crags have special cultural significance, cultural sensitivities and any issue arising must be resolved before climbing commences. In particular, aspects such as burial grounds and Tapu on Maori lands must be addressed. Relevant specialists may need to survey the crag.

Communications

Maintain good communications. A few minutes of polite discussion can mean an uninterrupted days climbing, whereas a few hurled abuses can result in no further access for climbers ever. Be courteous and respectful.

Camping

Camp only in designated areas and keep a tidy camp. Comprehensively extinguish any campfire after use.

Safety

• Inherent in climbing is an element of risk. Some flaunt it, others respect it, and some choose to ignore it. In the final analysis you are responsible for your own safety. Nobody has to do a particular route. If a route is too necky for you, back off. Climb as safely as possible.
• Beware of loose rocks, they cause considerable damage to people and equipment when dislodged. Some crags are notorious for having loose rocks on the routes and on access descent tracks.
• Wearing a helmet could save you from more serious injury.
  
• All things beings equal, softer rock is more likely to have protection fail; keep this in mind when placing wires at some of the softer rock crags.
  
• Treat all fixed gear with suspicion - you don't know its history.
  

Access to crags is a privilege not a right!