Mt Cook Region

Godley and Murchison Valleys | Tasman Valley | Hooker and Mueller Valleys | Western Neves | Guiding Services

This is the heart of New Zealand's alpine country, cntianing all but one of the 30 peaks over 3000m. The area is heavily glaciated and the climbing is generally very serious. Most of the peaks have long glacier approaches, with extensive moraine at lower altitudes. approach routes to some huts are serious climbs in themselves.

Godley and Murchison Valleys

Mt Sibbald (2804m) is a high peak in the lower Godley valley. The dominant peak of the Godley is D'Archiac (2865m) which is a long climb from the Godley Hut. Many peaks can be climbed from the feeder glaciers of the Godley. In the upper Godley itself is McClure Pk (2497m); above the Neish Plateau Mts Victoire (2484m) and Wolseley (2530m); in the Grey Glacier Mt Loughnan (2576m) and other striking mountains.

The Classen Glacier has Mts Moffat and Mannering (2637m). Climbs on the divide peaks have also been achieved from the west, via the head of the Whataroa valley and its tributary the Butler.

The Murchison valley has a long glacier with much moraine. Broderick Pk (2637m) is perhaps the most appealing mountain of the upper Murchison.

To the east the Liebig Range has summits up to 2850m, which are mostly straightforward climbing on broken rock.

In the Malte Brun Range there are long climbs over generaly good rock and broken glaciers, Malte Brun (3155m) being the highest peak.

Tasman Valley

Tasman Saddle Hut The head of the Tasman Glacier, though a serious area, is a good introduction to the Mount Cook region. The peaks, of which Elie de Beaumont (3117m) is the highest, mainly involve snow and ice climbing.

In the Malte Brun Range are excellent climbs on firm rock ridges, including Malte Brun itself.

De La Beche HutDe La Beche (2992m) and The Minarets (3055m) are usually climbed from the De La Beche Hut. Mt Haidinger (3066m) and Douglas Pk (3085m) are rarely climbed from the Tasman valley.

Mt Haast (3138m) can be climbed from Haast Hut. Plateau Hut is a base for climbing about 12 peaks over 3000m. Mts Dixon (3010m) and Haast (3138m) and Lendenfeld Pk (3200m) are short but steep climbs from the Grand Plateau. Mt Tasman (3498m) is often climbed via the Silberhorn (3307m). Various peaks over 3000m can be climbed from the head of the Linda Glacier, which is the usual route to Mt Dampier (3440m) and Mt Cook (3764m).

Hooker and Mueller Valleys

It is a relatively short walk to the upper Hooker Glacier, but the trip is serious and often difficult. From Empress Hut steep and difficult climbs can be made on Mt Hicks (3216m), Mt Dampier, and the High Peak and Middle Peak (3270m) of Mt Cook. There are easier routes to the Low Peak (3593m) and La Perouse (3079m).

Mueller HutMt Sefton (3157m) is a long and difficult climb from the lower Hooker valley.

Mueller Hut gives access to the Sealy Range, which is a suitable introductory area to the Mt Cook region. Mt Sealy (2637m) can be climbed from Mueller Hut, but peaks at the head of the Mueller Glacier are less accessible.

Western Neves

The Spencer and Burton Glaciers, which feed the Callery River, are rather inaccessible. Ascents of Elie de Beaumont from this side are rare.

Centennial HutThe Franz Josef Glacier is fed by a number of extensive snowfields, which are popular with ski mountaineers in the winter. Centennial Hut is the base for ascents of peaks in the Fritz Range and on the Main Divide, including The Minarets.

From Malcolm McNamee:
(17 November 2000.) Just returned from a few days in the Centennial Hut area, Franz Josef neve, excellent climbing conditions at the time and generally good access on to routes, good glacier travel as crevasses are well covered, though neve softened up after midday. There is some nice climbing in the area,good rock as well. You have peaks close to the hut like Mt Jervois 2648m, Mt Auroa 2685m, Aigrette Peak 2669m, Mt Spencer 2796m, and also The Minarets 3056m, with the west face route and other routes accessed from the Centennial Hut, Franz Josef neve area, all resonably close to the hut.

With such a great hut, this is a wonderful place to spend some time in the mountains, more info can be found in the Mt Cook guide book (I'm sure the new edition will have a lot more coverage on the area, hopefully). Are there plans to have a Westland National Park section giving info on the climbing that you can do from the Fox Glacier, Pioneer Hut,and from the Franz Josef Glacier, Centennial Hut areas?

It is always nice sitting back at the hut in the evening watching the sun sink into the sea after a day out and about climbing or ski touring.

Pioneer HutThe source of the Fox Glacier comprises several separate neves, and because of the well-sited Pioneer Hut is a popular climbing area. Mt Haidinger and Douglas Pk are short climbs of some difficulty, and the three peaks of Mt Haast are quite demanding climbs. Lendenfeld Pk is a straightforward snow and ice climb from which a capable party can traverse to Tasman. Torres Pk (3160m) requires a long walk across the neves.

The Balfour neve has rather difficult access, either from the Fox Glacier or over Silberhorn. Difficult routes on Mt Tasman and Torres Pk, as well as hard rock climbs on Drake and Magellan (3060m), are available.

Also rather difficult of access are the La Perouse neves, from which seven peaks over 3000m, including La Perouse, Hicks and Dampier can be climbed.

The Strauchon Glacier is rarely visited, although the twin peaks Unicorn (2560m) and Dilemma Pk (2619m) have been climbed by difficult rock routes.

The Douglas neve is reached from the Copland valley by a long trip up Scotts Creek. Mt Sefton is a straightforward climb from the neve.

Guidebooks:

Aoraki/Mount Cook Guidebook 

Maps:

Maps can be purchased from Mapworld who offer NZAC members a 10% discount. 
NZAC members receive a 25% discount on maps purchased through Federated Mountain Clubs (FMC).