NZAC Southland Section Winter Climbing Meet

Places for the July 2010 meet are now full.

While waterfall ice climbing, and to a lesser extent modern M type Winter climbing is enjoying some popularity at present, there are relatively few active climbers on the more traditional type of Winter route in the mountains, and fewer still exploring.  This is possibly partly to do with the way most climbers come into the sport now, through walls and bolted cragging routes. But there is something a wee bit special about the trust which is built up between climbers when they have a 60m rope all run out, no gear, and the next possible place for the leader to stop is still a good 10 metres away……  But there are climbers who want to get involved in this.

It can be very difficult for newcomers to this rather esoteric branch of mountaineering to get started, or for people who want to improve their skills to get to meet with climbers who might be able to pass on advice, to find out which routes are best worth doing – especially in the lower and mid grades - , and to form new partnerships. For many of us, there is no sense of a Winter climbing scene or community. We would like to try to help change this, and if it leads to an increase in standards and overall competence in Winter, so much the better.

The Meet will be organised by active Winter Climbers from the Southland Section of the NZAC. Some of the group will be in attendance at all times. They may even climb…..but are equally at home sitting round the fire with a bottle of something nice and talking rubbish.

We aim to provide a venue where climbers can get together socially, climb with new partners, possibly climb in an area they have never visited, exchange views and ideas on technique and ethics, and get some great climbing done.

Going to the Homer Hut was a natural choice, apart from being right beside the road, big and comfy, there are climbs of all standards right on the doorstep. And the boys from the South rather enjoy climbing in The Darrans – it’s nearly like Scotland (yes, conditions can be just as awful), but twice as big! Despite the awesome reputation of the place, there are places which can be accessed and climbed on with a lower risk of having the mountain drop on your head. Places with turf almost as good as in the Southern Highlands. Going for later on in the winter should also mean that there’s a better chance of the big icy routes being well formed up, and for those of us who have trouble getting up in the morning, there’s more daylight too.

We envisage that the Meet would mainly be for people who already have at least a basic grounding in Winter Climbing techniques, and not be a climbing school. If you want to learn here, get out and do it on the hill. We would like to see a real mix of climbers attend, from those climbing Grade 2, right through to poking out new lines at grade 7. People climbing at more modest grades, for whatever reason, need the encouragement and inspiration the harder climbers can give, the harder climbers should feel that there are others coming along snapping at their heels to keep them onto their game.

July is still many months away, and it is probably wishful thinking that we’ll come anywhere near filling the Homer, but we would appreciate an indication of interest in the Meet as soon as possible.

Contact for the Southland Section
Alastair Walker
E-Mail     mealluaine@actrix.co.nz