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NZAC Expedition Fund

 

Cerro Torre, Torre Egger and Cerro Standhardt, Fitz Roy National Park, Patagonia, Argentina. In November this year, Jono Clarke, Steve Fortune and Daniel Joll will attempt the first Kiwi ascent of Torre Egger with funding from an NZAC Expedition Fund grant. Photo by Daniel Joll.

Cerro Torre, Torre Egger and Cerro Standhardt, Fitz Roy National Park, Patagonia, Argentina. In November 2015, Jono Clarke, Steve Fortune and Daniel Joll attempted the first Kiwi ascent of Torre Egger with funding from an NZAC Expedition Fund grant. Photo by Daniel Joll.

About the Expedition Fund

NZAC members planning an overseas trip with defined and significant climbing objectives can apply for a grant from the Club’s Expedition Fund. Assistance may be given for rock climbing but, because of the smaller financial commitment for such trips, they are less likely to qualify. Trekking trips with climbs of minor peaks or informal trips without defined objectives do not usually qualify. Grants are only made to Club members. See a list of current and past recipients, plus Expedition Reports.

The Expedition Fund is financed directly from donations from Members and not from core subscriptions. When paying their subscription Members can make optional donations to the Fund. Make a donation to the Expedition Fund.

Criteria

Many factors, not least of which the health of the fund, determine the success of apllications. The criteria, in order of importance, are:

  • first ascent of a peak or route
  • exploration of new areas
  • first ascent of a peak or route by NZAC members
  • first exploration of new areas by NZAC members
  • first expedition (preferably under 30 years old)
  • an ascent of international significance
  • section expedition (must also have Section financial support)
Changi Tower. In July and August 2015, Graham Zimmerman and Scott Bennett made the first ascent of Changi Tower (6500m), via the North Ridge; and the first ascent of the South West Ridge of K6 West, both in the Nangmah Valley, Pakistan Karakoram. Photo by Graham Zimmerman.

Changi Tower. In July and August 2015, Graham Zimmerman and Scott Bennett made the first ascent of Changi Tower (6500m), via the North Ridge; and the first ascent of the South West Ridge of K6 West, both in the Nangmah Valley, Pakistan Karakoram. Photo by Graham Zimmerman.

Applying for a Grant

Please use our Expedition Fund application form (Word format 104kb) (PDF format 32kb) when applying for a grant. (Note: check your browser’s pop-up blocker settings if the above forms do not open, or try another browser). Once completed, this form can be either emailed, or posted to The Convener, Overseas Climbing Committee, New Zealand Alpine Club Inc., PO Box 786, Christchurch Mail Centre 8140.

The Overseas Climbing Committee considers applications twice a year – applications must be submitted by either 31 January or 31 July. Applications received outside these times will not be considered. Grants can not be made to expeditions that have already left the country.

Conditions of Grants

These vary but will always include the following:

  • Agreement to supply an article with photographs for the next edition of the NZ Alpine Journal, and a short summary for The Climber.
  • Agreement to submit a report on the expedition for posting on the Fund History page with up-to-date information on local conditions and problems.
  • Agreement to give a lecture to your local Section and, on an expense reimbursement basis, to any other Sections of the Club which may request a talk.
  • Agreement to acknowledge the NZAC Expedition Fund along with any other sponsor acknowledgements in lectures and articles
  • A grant may be tied to a particular expense such as the purchase of equipment or payment of a peak fee.

Support for Other Funding

Even if the Club cannot provide funding it may be able to give useful support for your application for funding from government and private organisations. The Mount Everest Foundation welcomes applications from New Zealand climbing expeditions and has made grants to a number of these over the last few years. Funding is also available periodically from Sport New Zealand

Expedition Objectives

That’s for you to decide but the NZAC may be able to provide contact addresses for climbers (in New Zealand and overseas) who have been there before, or have access to published information. This could include Club Members or other contacts in the countries you are visiting. The Club libraries contain sets of overseas climbing journals which are available for reference.

Endorsements

Some governments and authorities, particularly in Asia e.g. Nepal, require that your credentials are verified. An endorsement on the Club’s letterhead can open doors for you. How do you get an endorsement? Just email, or write to The Convener, Overseas Climbing Sub-Committee, PO Box 786, Christchurch giving brief details of exactly what you want. What you will get is a suitable endorsement – the Club will not guarantee that you’ll “perform” or undertake to rescue you from jail for illegal activities.

Letters of Introduction

These are similar to an endorsement, are given on the Club’s letterhead and read something like:
We want to introduce you to …………. and …………. who are members of the Club /experienced climbers. Give them as much help as you can.

Such letters have been provided routinely in Spanish for climbers and trampers visiting South America. They could be handy when foreign Customs start giving you the once over.

Equipment

The Club is not in the business of hiring or maintaining great stashes of gear. The Club may be able to put you in contact with others who have specialized gear or with other New Zealand climbers going to the same region before or after you. You may be able to share gear and thus reduce costs.

Past Grant Recipients

Read about past grant recipients.

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Xuanwu Peak (5300m), in the Shuangqiao Valley, Sichuan, China. In October 2014 David Hood made the first ascent of the south-west ridge of Xuanwu Peak. Photo by Ola Przybysz

Xuanwu Peak (5300m), in the Shuangqiao Valley, Sichuan, China. In October 2014 David Hood made the first ascent of the south-west ridge of Xuanwu Peak.
Photo by Ola Przybysz

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