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This is a general list of expeditions and members who have received support in the past from the Club’s Expedition Fund. Grants are open to Club members only and do have a number of conditions attached including articles and photos for both The Climber magazine and New Zealand Alpine Journal, and being available for shows and talks to local monthly section evenings.

 

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Note: You may find reports in the annual NZ Alpine Journal of the relevant year, should they not be attached to this webpage. Applications close on the 31st July each year.

2018 Grants

$800 – First ascents on Flat Top (6103m) and the Kishtwar Eiger (5826m), Kishtwar Himalaya, India – Reg Measures (Leader) and Tim Elson (UK).

2017 Grants

$2000 – New routes on Never Seen Tower (5750m), Miyar Valley, Himachal Pradesh, India – Llewellyn Murdoch, Allison Swintz, Nick Cradock and David Shotwell (24 May – 30 June 2017). Miyar Valley Expedition Report 2017

$750 – First ascent of Muchu Chhish (7453m), Pakistan Karakoram – Graham Zimmerman (with Chris Wright from USA). Follow-up: Due to permit issues the team had to modify their objectives, hence the change to the expedition report, which became the: Kondus Valley, Pakistani Karakoram Expedition Report 2017

$1200 – New route on Cholatse (6440m), Khumbu region, Nepal – Daniel Joll, Steve Fortune and Matthew Scholes.

Troll Finger Expedition Poster 20162016 Grants

$900 – ‘Troll Finger Expedition’ – New route on the Troll Finger sea-stack, Faroe Islands – Jack Grinsted, Jason Blair and Dave McKinney.
Follow-up: Success in their objective to climb a new route on the ocean face of the iconic Trollfinger.
Talks held at Auckland, Wellington and Christchurch Section evenings.

$600 – First traverse of Langua-e-Barfi (7017m) and Koh-Langar (7076m), Wakhan Valley, Afghanistan – Pat Deavoll (with Ted Callahan).
Follow-up: Expedition returned to NZ due to Visa issues and funds returned for re-issue.

$600 – First ascent of the west face of Celeno Peak (4083m), Wrangell-St Elias Range, Alaska – Graham Zimmerman (with Chris Wright).
Follow-up: Scroll down when PDF opens as top of page is blank  Celeno Peak Expedition Report 2016

$1000 – New routes on Taulliraju, Chacraraju and Caraz II, Cordillera Blanca, Peru – Steve Skelton and Ben Dare.
Follow-up:

$900 – First ascent of the west ridge of Taulliraju, Cordillera Blanca, Peru – Peter Harris, Jaz Morris and Rose Pearson.
Follow-up: Cordillera Blanca Peru Expedition Report 2016

$1500 – New direct route on the southwest face of Taulliraju, Cordillera Blanca, Peru – Steven Fortune, Daniel Joll and Matthew Scholes.
Follow-up: Peru Report NZAC 2016

K6 Pakistani Exp - Graham Zimmerman climbing West Mid-Route 2015

K6 Pakistani Exp – Graham Zimmerman climbing West Mid-Route 2015

2015 Grants

$600 – First ascent of the east face and peak of Mt Serengepu, Shuangqiao Valley, Sichuan, China – David Hood (NZAC), with Ola Przybysz and Raul Sauco.

$1500 – First NZ ascent of Torre Egger, Patagonia – Daniel Joll, Steve Fortune and Ben Dare.

$1500 – the South face of K6 Central (7100m), Pakistan – Graham Zimmerman and Scott Bennett.
Follow-up: K6 Pakistani Karakoram Expedition 2015

2014 Grants

Anidesha Chuli Expedition 2014 image John Price

Anidesha Chuli Expedition 2014 image: John Price

$800 – Objectives on Cerro Torre, Cerro Fitzroy and Torre Egger, Patagonia – Llewellyn Murdoch and Milo Gilmour.

$1800 – First ascent of Anidesha Chuli or White Wave (6815m), NE Nepal – Paul and Shelley Hersey and John Price.
Follow-up: Anidesha Chuli Trip Report 2014

$1200 – New routes on Langua-tai-Barfi (7017m) and Shakawr (7116m), Hindu Kush, Pakistan – Pat Deavoll and Chris Todd.
Follow-up: Hindu Kush Expedition Report 2014

$600 – Technical unclimbed routes in the Revelation range, Alaska – Graham Zimmerman (NZAC), with Clint Helander and Jens Holsen (USA).
Follow-up: Revelations Alaska Expedition 2014

$600 – Attempt on Cassin Ridge, Denali, Alaska – Pete Harris and Ari Kingan.

2013 Grants

$600 – Unclimbed Granite Faces in the Revelation Mountains, Alaska Range – Graham Zimmerman (NZAC) with Scott Bennett (USA). Originally intended as Tahu Rutum, Hispar region, Pakistan.

2012 Grants

$2500 – Yangma Expedition 2012 – John Nankervis, Geoffroy Lamarche, Nicholas Shearer, John Cocks, Paul Maxim, and Martin Hunter for exploration in the Yangma valley, Nepal, with ascents of Chaw Peak (6404m) and Suyaokang (5960m).

$2400 – NZ White Wave Expedition 2013 – Rob Frost, Ben Dare, Scott Blackford-Scheele and Andrei van Dusschoten will attempt Anidesha Chuli (6808m), aka White Wave, in the Kangchendzonga Region of Nepal from April-May 2013

$600 – NZ Expedition to the Wakhan Corridor 2012 – Pat Deavoll and Mary-Rose Fowlie will attempt Rahozon Zom (6535m) in Afghanistan from July 2012. Outcome: the Successful first ascent of an alternative peak Koh-e-Rant

$623.85 – Graham Zimmerman (NZAC) with Blake Herrington and Scott Bennett (USA): new routes on SW Face of Asperity and SW face of ‘The Blade’, Waddington Range, British Columbia (originally intended as Tahu Rutum, Hispar region, Pakistan).

2011 Grants

$2500 – Ben Dare (NZAC); new technical mountaineering routes SW Face Kusum Kanguru (6369m) and NE Face Kyajo Ri (6186m). Solu Khumbu Region, Eastern Nepal

$1000 – Christine Byrch (NZAC) and Pat Deavoll (NZAC); first ascent of the east ridge of Koh-e-Baba TAngi (6516m), Hindu Kush Range, Wakhan Corridor, Afghanistan

$519.95 – Graham Zimmerman (NZAC) and Mark Allan (USA); new routes on the SW Face of Foraker and SE Aspect of ‘The Fin’ in the East Fork of the Lacuna Glacier, Alaska Range, Alaska

$1200 – Tim Church (NZAC) and Yvonne Pfluger (NZAC); Xianqiuqieke Expedition 2011

2010 Grants

$500 – Pat Deavoll (NZAC) with Malcolm Bass (UK); First Ascent of Jankuth (6805m), Northern India

$1000 – Andrei van Dusschoten (NZAC) with Yvonne Pfluger (NZAC) & Tim Church (NZAC); First ascents in the Daxue Shan Mountains, Southwest China

$1000 – Jay Piggott (NZAC) with Katharina Lange (NZAC), Jeremy Frimer, Sarah Frimer; First Ascent Southeast Ridge of Yerupaja in the Cordillera Huayhuash.

$1500 (?$1000) – Graham Zimmerman (NZAC) & Cory Richards (USA) Chamlang North Face Expedition 2010

2009 Grants

$2000 – Guy McKinnon = new routes on GIII and GIV, Karakorum (not taken up)

$1250 – Bruce Dowrick and team = Chrakusa Valley, Karakorum

$600 – Pat Deavoll, Paul Hersey = Karim Sar, Pakistan 2009 (first ascent of Karim Sar by Pat Deavoll)

$1000 – Penny Goddard, Lydia Bradey = NyamboKonka, China

2008 Grants

$1500 – Paul Hersey, Graham Zimmerman, Shelley Hersey, Yew Jin Tan = Harturtay, Kyrgyzstan 2008 (first ascent of Kyzyl Muz North Face, Jipdick Valley by Graham Zimmerman and Yew Jin Tan)

$1000 – Penny Goddard = Mount Everest 2008 (successful ascent made from the north)

$1800 – James Dempster, Sarah O’Donohue, Aaron Gillespie, Maliaka Davies, Hamish Reid, Alex Alexiades = Apolobamba 2008 (new routes climbed in the region)

$1000 – Pat Deavoll = Beka Brakkai Chhok, Pakistan 2008 (unsuccessful)

$1500 – Steve Eastwood, Scott Windle = Donakposang Ski Mountaineering Expedition, Tibet (deferred until 2009) (ascent made of Moonflower Buttress, Mt Hunter)

2007 Grants

$2500 – Brian Alder = NZ Himalaya Alpine-Style Expedition 2007

$2000 – Pat Deavoll, Paul Hersey and Shelley Hersey = Kharchakund Expedition, India

$1,600 – Patricia Deavoll and Lydia Bradey = Beka Brakkai Chhok

$1000 – Penny Goddard = Everest north ridge

$450 – Kim Senger = Frozen Five Expedition, a 1000km skiing traverse of the Arctic archipelago of Svalbard. (Mch / Apl 2007) Team members: Kim Senger, Mats Bjorkman, Jirka Lichteneger, Lucas Girard, Hella Garny.

2006 Grants

$700 – Patricia Deavoll and Malcolm Bass = The first ascent of  Haizi Shan (Zhara), Sichuan, China (Sep / Oct 2006)

$1,200 – Erik Monasterio = North-east Cordillera Read, Bolivia 2006. Team Members: Erik Monasterio (Leader), Nick Flyvbjerg

$900 – Tim Billington and Mathew Farrell = Mt Fitzroy 2006, Patagonia. Update: Failed to reach the summit.

$1,600 – Kester Brown = Qionglai Range, Western Sichuan. Team Members: Kester Brown (Leader), Vaughn Thomas, Jonathan Clearwater.

$2,500 – Brian Alder = NZ Himalaya Alpine-Style Expedition 2007

2005 Grants

$2,700 – Jay Piggott and Johnathon Clearwater = International Uli Biaho Expedition 2005. International Uli Biaho Expedition Report 2005

$2,600 – Sean Waters and Jo Kippax = Unclimbed Tibet Expedition. Unclimbed Tibet Expedition Report 2005

$2,500 – Swenja Stellfeld, Bruce Dowrick, Matt Evrard, Erik Bradshaw and Christine Ryan = Mt Wandel Antarctica Mt Wandel Expedition Antarctica Report 2005

$1,500 – Paul Knott and Grant Piper = Grand Poobah Expedition, Kyrgyzstan (Jly / Aug 2005) Grand Poobah Expedition Kyrgyzstan Report 2005

$950 – Pat Deavoll = Xiashe Massif, Sichuan, China (Sep / Oct 2005) Xiashe Massif China Report 2005

$800 – Vanessa Johnson and Kris Persson = Cordillera Apolobamba, Bolivia (Jun / Jly 2005)

$300 – Brendan Lynch = NZ Cho Oyu Expedition 2005. Update: Summit not achieved.

$215 – Lydia Bradey = 30th Anniversary of the First Female Ascent of Mt Everest Celebrations, Kathmandu, Nepal 30 Oct – 1 Nov 2005, supported to attend as the first women to climb Mt Everest with oxygen.

2004 Grants

$3000 – Hall and Ball Memorial Grant – Sean Waters and Jo Kippax = Nyainqentanglha East, Tibet. This area has a large number of unclimbed peaks, including Chuchepo (6550m) and Birutaso (6691m). Sean and Jo and experienced Club climbers having received support from the fund in the past for climbs in Kazakstan and South America (2004). Update: Permit pulled and transferred their attention to the unclimbed Longemain (6,294m) and Daddomain (6,380m) in Sichuan. Summitted Longemain, Daddomain?

$2000 – Pat Deavoll and Marty Beare = Jankuth (6807m), India. This two well-known ice climbers will be taking part in a joint New Zealand / British expedition led by Malcolm Bass. This unclimbed peak lies at the head of the Gangotri Glacier in the Garwhal Himalayas (2004). Update: Got very near the summit c. 6400m on a very hard and enjoyable trip.

$1500 – Erik Monasterio and Mike Brown = Bolivian Andes. Erik is well known in this part of the world and the proposed new route objectives on Ancohuma (6,427m), Illampu (6,384m) and Emma Maria Peak (5,531m) are very exciting (2004). Update: Reported a successful trip.

$1200 Matthew Cant/John Garner = Volcan Lautaro and Southern Patagonian Ice Cap 2004

$800 – Steve Eastwood/Rory Camm = Expedition to Denali, Ascent and Ski Telemark Descent. Update: Expedition did not proceed, funds returned to the Club.

$500 – Derek Chinn = Everest. Although a very low priority for the Expedition Fund, support has been granted in this case for support to longtime Club member Derek in his attempt on Mt Everest (2004). Update: Successful ascent via the North Ridge.

$450 – Steve Parker = Mt Waddington 2005, Canada

2003 Grants

$1100 – Pat Deavoll, Marty Beare = Alaskan climbs including North Face Pk 11,520, Tokositna Glacier, West Face of Mt Hunter, North (Moonflower) Buttress of Mt Hunter (May / Jun 2003).

$400 – Grant Redvers = Gambo South Georgia Expedition (Feb / Mar 2003).

$500 – Duncan Kemsley =Cumberland Peninsula on Baffin Island Expedition.

2002 Grants

$1000 – Sean Waters, Jo Kippax = Paine and Aconcagua, South Amercia, (Dec 2002)

$550 – Richard Wesley = Mt Logan, Alaska. A trip that failed on its major objective of Mt St Ellias, but then skied to Canada and climbed Mt Logan instead (May 2002).

$400 – Penny Goddard = Antarctic Climbing (2002).

$300 – Anna Gillooly = Cordillera Blanca (Jul 2002).

$650 – Pat Deavoll = Alaskan Ice Climbing (2002).

$900 – Dave Massam, Robyn = Men in Tights (MIT) Expedition to South America (2002)

2001 Grants

$1600 – Craig Jefferies, Mark Morrison, Keith Riley = Tien Shan (Jun / Sep 2001).

$350 – Steve Eastwood = East Ridge and Warbler of Mt Logan, Canada (Jun 2001).

$400 – Paul Knott, = Pik Dankova Expedition, Tien Shan, Kyrgyzstan (Jul / Sep 2001). Follow up: Pik Dankova Expedition Report 2001

$800 – Phillippa Jones, Martin Hill = Madagascar Expedition (Jun / Jul 2001).

$400 – Mark Williams, = Adventure Consultants Makalu Expedition (pre-monsoon 2001).

2000 Grants

$3000 – Judy Reid = Wellington Section Expedition to Snow Lake (Jul / Aug 2000)

$1600 – Hall and Ball Memorial Grant- Kat West, Dave Crofts, Bryan Moore = NZ North Ridge Ama Dablam Expedition. A fantastic trip climbing a well-known mountain in alpine style (Apr 2000).

$600 – Steve Moffatt = Cordilleras and Huayhuasch (Jun/Aug 2000)

$350 – Brede Arkless = Everest from Tibet – Swiss Expedition (2000).

1999 Grants

$2000 Hall and Ball Memorial Grant – Sean Waters, Jo Kippax = Pik Pobeda and Khan Tengri, Tien Shan (1999).

$1200 – Ned Norton (Paul Weber, Andrew McAuley and Vera Wong) = Amin Peak, Hushe Valley, Pakistan (1999).

$1000 – Steve Moffat = Expedition to Karavshin and Ak-Su Valleys, Uzbekistan (1999).

$800 – Richard Wesley = UIAA International Camp for Expedition Training, Hindu Raj. First ascents of many peaks in a small little know valley (1999).

$500 – Tim Kerr = Baffin Island (1999).

1998 Grants

Believe this Expedition may have been given a grant but historical records not available to confirm. There is only the application letter to the Fund and following report from the 1999 NZ Alpine Journal: Kangchenjunga Expedition  Report 1998 – a seven-person team attempting the NW face route to the North col and then along the NW Ridge to the summit. Leader Chris Comerie. Team members: Mark Bryan NZAC member, plus 5 others from the UK.

1997 Grants

$1600 – Gilda Otway = Women Climbing Expedition to India (1997).

$1200 – Dominic Hammond = NZ Aghil Expedition, China (Sep / Oct 1997).

$600 – Bruce Hasler = Pumori / Ama Dablam Expedition (1997).

$300 – Ansja de Boer = North Ridge Everest (Mar/Jun 1997).

1996 Grants

$2250 – Steve Thornley = New Zealand Karakoram Expedition (1996).

$1800 – Carol Diamond, Richard Wesley = Auckland Section Peruvian Andes Expedition. An expedition consisting of a group of Auckland Section members headed off for several weeks climbing from a base in Hauraz. Many peaks were climbed and it is an excellent objective for other sections looking for a suitable place for first time expeditions (1996).

$250 – Andy Scrase = New Zealand Australian Canadian Expedition to Bhagirathi III (1996)

1995 Grants

$1500 – Robin Gurr, James Wright = Cordillera Blanca (1995).

$400 – Duncan Chessell = Makalu (1995).

$300 – Lorne Brown = Cordillera Blanca (1995).

1994 Grants
1993 Grants
1992 Grants

1991 Grants

?? – Martin Hunter = Cholatse Expedition 1992 Cholatse Expedition Report 1992

 

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