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Trip Report – Trad Climbing Weekend at Long Beach

By: Jenny Beesley

Source: Southland Section Newsletter (April 2018)

The first section trip of the year got 2018 off to a good start as a group of keen folk headed over to Long Beach near Dunedin to seek a bit of trad climbing, primo weather and post-climbing swims/general beach lounging.

We were lucky to have secured the rock climbing instruction services of Dave Brash for a two-day course for 4 of us as an intro to trad for some, and a tune-up for others.  With Mihiwaka so close, it’s always tough deciding whether to climb at the beach  or up the hill.  For Saturday, the sand and sea won out and most people climbed at Long Beach, warming up on the easier offerings and then moving on to a couple of challenges.  The rock was dry, the weather warm but not too hot and it was hard to imagine life getting much better than this.

Dave Brash providing trad climbing instruction

The Long Beach Community Hall is a great venue for hanging out after a day’s climbing, a place to prep food and somewhere to sleep.  And it’s pretty cheap, too.  A BBQ, a few beers and the occasional tall story and/or brief but robust debate rounded off Saturday nicely and we got some kip before spending Sunday at Mihiwaka, five minutes up the hill.

For those of you who haven’t climbed at Mihiwaka yet, don’t wait – get on up there.  It feels pretty exposed when you climb out from under the canopy onto the wall with it’s stunning views of the harbour entrance and peninsula and all-in-all, is a pretty special place to climb.  Especially if you like easy-to-moderate grades with good pro on steep rock.

So cheers to Dave, Pete (el presidente) and everyone who came over to Dunners to make it a great weekend.  And thanks to Donna for looking after us and keeping us in check!

Posted: 14/05/18

Posted By: Narina Sutherland