Intermediate Snowcraft Course
Who is this course for?
The NZAC Intermediate Snowcraft Course is designed for NZAC Novice Mountaineers (or those with an equivalent skill set) who are looking to gain additional skills to travel safely in alpine terrain where straightforward steep snow and ice is encountered, and where abeiling on descent could be required.
This is an alpine course suitable for NZAC Novice Mountaineers who have consolidated their skills through trips on grade 1+ alpine terrain. Please ensure you meet the minimum requirements.
At a minimum, those wishing to register for the Intermediate Snowcraft Course must:
- Have experience in backcountry tramping
- Have undertaken personal trips on Aoraki Mount Cook Grade 1+ terrain
- Be competent in the course outcomes detailed in the NZAC Basic Snowcraft Course Outline &/or have attended a basic skills course the season before
- Have the fitness to enjoy multiple full days in the mountain environment off track
- Have some rock climbing and belaying experience. Also proficient at tying the following knots: figure eight (bight and re-thread), alpine butterfly, classic prussic hitch, Italian hitch & clove hitch
COURSE SYLLABUS
Pre-Trip Planning
- Clothing/equipment
- Trip planning resources (avalanche forecast/weather forecasts/guidebooks)
- Weather
- Navigation
- Physical training
Moving In The Alpine Environment
- Use of two ice axes, for daggering and piolet traction on moderately steep snow
- The use of crampons on steeper terrain
- Multi-pitch climbing on moderate terrain
- Single-pitch abseiling with the use of prussic (AKA 'Self protected abseil')
- Route selection and planning
- Building basic snow anchors: 'T' Slot, vertical mid clip snow stake, top-clip, ice axe belay, snow bollard, abseiling off rock bollards
- Use of basic climbing calls
COURSE OUTCOMES*
Pre-Trip Planning
- An ability to plan simple trips into the alpine environment
- An ability to locate and interpret a range of weather forecasts, avalanche forecasts, and other relevant information
- An ability to identify simple features on a map and a basic ability to relocate using the map and terrain features
- An awareness of basic physical training principles applicable to the mountain environment
Moving In The Alpine Environment
- An ability to use both an ice axe and mountaineering boots as an effective tool for traveling in the alpine environment
- an ability to use two ice axes and crampons to effectively ascend and descend moderately steep snow where pitching is not normally required including front-pointing and French Technique
- Can demonstrate multiple crampon techniques appropriate to the snow type and gradient
- Can build a basic snow or rock bollard anchor
- The ability to demonstrate appropriate abseil technique
- An ability to or understand the context of efficient travel techniques in the alpine environment with particular attention to avoiding avalanche terrain
- Has an awareness of a variety of possible anchor types and can select an appropriate anchor for the situation
- Understand the importance of and demonstrate clear communication when ropes are used
Someone who has these skills is considered a NZAC Intermediate Mountaineer and is likely to have the skills and ability to travel on Aoraki Mount Cook Grade 2+ terrain (that has no glacial related complications).
*Course Outcomes may vary depending on participant ability and course conditions. This is a guideline; individuals must assess their own ability after a course.
COURSE OVERVIEW
Duration: 2/3 days
Season: July-September
Location: Various mountainous locations across New Zealand
Course Tutors: NZAC Section Snowcraft Instructors or Professional Instructors with NZOIA Alpine 2 (or equivalent qualifications)
Ratio: 1:4
Cost: Set by Sections
Progression: Backcountry Avalanche Course, Intermediate Navigation Course
GEAR LIST
The minimum gear you are required to bring on the course is listed below. If you have any questions about the gear you require, contact your Section for guidance.
| ITEM | SPECIFICATION | NUMBER |
| Mountaineering boots | Rigid leather or plastic | 1 pair |
| Gaiters | Long | 1 pair |
| Crampons | With anti balling plates | 1 pair |
| Climbing helmet | 1 | |
| Ice axe | 50-70cm | 1 |
| Ice hammer | 1 | |
| Avalanche Kit | Transceiver (& spare batteries), Shovel, Probe | 1 set |
| Snow stake | with wire strops | 1 |
| Locking carabiners | 4 | |
| Snap gate carabiners | 4 | |
| Belay device | not a grigri and a locking carabiner | 1 |
| Harness & Personal safety sling | 120cmm + SG carabiner | 1 |
| Tape sling | 1 x 5 metre or 5m x 7mm cordellette | 1 |
| Tape sling | 120cm sewn or tied | 2 |
| Prussic cords | 1 metre and 1.75 metre | 2 |
| Pack & pack liner | 30-50 litres and straps that can take ice axes, etc | 1 |
| Socks | Warm | 2 pairs |
| Shell jacket and pants | Gore-Tex or equivalent | 1 |
| Hat/balaclava | Warm and must be able to fit under helmet | 1 |
| Shell gloves | Storm proof, warm | 1 pair |
| Working gloves | Leather 'Kinko/Ice Ninja' (can be purchased at Farmland or Bunnings stores) | 1 pair |
| Thermal Tops and Leggings | Polypro or merino | 1 set |
| Fleece top or jacket | Mid layer | 1 |
| Jacket | Down or synthetic | 1 |
| Sunhat/cap | 1 | |
| Sunglasses or ski goggles | 1 pair | |
| Sunblock | 1 | |
| Water bottle | 1.5litres (no bladder as these can freeze) | 1 |
| Personal first aid kit | The instructor will have a group first aid kit. Bring your personal items | 1 |
| Sleeping bag | 1 | |
| Hut clothes | shoes, toiletries, towels | 1 |
| GROUP GEAR LIST 1:2 PEOPLE | ||
| Climbing Rope | 50-60 metre single climbing rope per pair of climbers | 1 |
| Alpine rack | 5 x various size nuts, 2 x cams | 1 |
OPTIONAL ITEMS
Compass, notebook and pen/pencil, thermos for hot drinks, camera
INSURANCE
We recommend you take out travel insurance and/or personal insurance as part of your preparation for participating on NZAC Instruction Courses.
EMERGENCY SITUATIONS AND RISK DISCLOSURE
The Course Instructors will have Emergency Management Procedures in place and field communication devices to immediately contact rescue services int eh case of an accident or emergency. You are welcome to take your own personal locator beacon if you own one.
The natural environment and climbing activities can involve risks. While recognising that the course organisers and instructors do their best to manage these risks, and agreeing to accept their direction whenever required, you must accept personal responsibility for your own actions and safety. You must also accept to follow all the instructions of the Course Leader and other instructors at all times.
All participants on the course are expected to be as honest and transparent as possible about their experience and fitness as part of their application. If a participant's lack of fitness/ability severely affects the running of the course the participant(s) may be asked to not participate for certain activities. Arrangements may be made to evacuate the participant(s) at their own cost. The instructor is the final arbiter in these decisions.