Rock Rescue Skills Course

Who is this course for?

The NZAC Rock Rescue Skills Course is designed for NZAC Sport Climbers and NZAC Trad Climbers (or equivalent skill set) who are looking to learn the skills self-rescue and assist others.

Prior to attending this course* participants must have experience leading climbs, be a NZAC Sport Climber or NZAC Trad Climber.

COURSE SYLLABUS

Preparing For A Rock Rescue

  • Rescue-specific equipment selection
  • Decision-making: when to attempt self-rescue vs external
  • Scene safety and hazard management
  • Communication during rescue scenarios
  • Managing time, fatigue, and complexity under pressure

Going Hands-Free

  • Securing the system safely
  • Backing up the belay device (e.g. with a catastrophe knot)
  • Understanding redundancy and failure points

Lowering A Climber

  • Lowering a climber from guide mode
  • Load Strand Direct (LSD) methods
  • Managing friction, control and backups during lowers

Assisting A Second

  • Hauling systems for stuck or injured seconds
  • Use of catastrophe knot while building systems
  • 3:1 Pig Rig using sling and counterweight
  • Bypassing a loaded belay device to retrieve it
  • Assessing when hauling is appropriate vs lowering

Rescuing An Injured Climber

  • Managing an injured second or leader
  • Tandem abseils with an injured climber
  • Use of a rescue spider for multi-pitch rescue descents
  • Managing an unresponsive climber during descent
  • Minimising further injury during movement

Multi-Pitch Context

  • Rescue considerations on ledges vs hanging belays
  • Rope management during rescue transitions
  • Passing knots, devices, and systems mid-rescue
  • Choosing the safest descent option in complex terrain
COURSE OUTCOMES*

Preparing For A Rescue

  • Knowledge to select appropriate rescue equipment
  • Ability to assess situations and choose suitable rescue strategies
  • Understanding of limitations and when to seek external rescue

System Security

  • Ability to go hands-free safely while maintaining system integrity
  • Understanding of redundancy, backups, and catastrophic failure prevention

Lowering And Hauling

  • Ability to lower a climber safely from guide mode
  • Ability to remove a belay device from a loaded system
  • Ability to assist a second using 2:1, 3:1, and 5:1 hauling systems
  • Competence in managing progress capture and system conversions
  • Skills in transferring loads using prusiks, slings, and Italian hitches
  • Understanding of returning the system to a functional baseline

Injured Climber Rescue

  • Ability to manage and descend with an injured climber
  • Competence in tandem abseils and rescue spider systems
  • Understanding of safe techniques for moving unresponsive climbers

Multi-Pitch Rescue Application

  • Ability to apply rescue techniques on multi-pitch terrain
  • Demonstrate judgement around efficiency, safety, and escalation

*Course Outcomes may vary dependant on participant ability and course conditions. This is a guideline, individuals must assess their own ability after a course.

COURSE OVERVIEW

Duration: 2 days

Season: November-April

Location: Various crags

Course Tutors: NZOIA Rock Level 2 Instructors, NZMGA Climbing Guides

Ratio: 1:6

Cost: Set by Sections

Progression: Ongoing personal development and trips. NZAC Multi-Pitch Climbing Skills Course.