Sport Climbing Course

Who is this course for?

The NZAC Sport Climbing Course is designed for NZAC Beginner Climbers (or equivalent skill set) who are looking to learn the skills to lead climb single pitch routes on fixed protection.

Prior to attending this course participants must have experience top roping climbs, be a NZAC Beginner Climber.

COURSE SYLLABUS

Preparing For A Sport Climb

  • Equipment
  • Selecting appropriate climbs

Belaying Sport Climbs

  • Preparing the rope, flaked and knotted
  • Communication and companion checks
  • Spotting climber to the first bolt when appropriate
  • Lead belaying techniques with tubular devices (such as ATC) and active and passive Assisted Brake Devices (such as Grigri, smart, pilot):
    • Stance
    • Soft and hard catches
    • Amount of slack rope in system to prevent ground falls
    • Giving rope quickly when required
  • Lowering a leader who is cleaning the route

Leading Sport Climbs

  • Racking - number of draws required
  • Tactics - keeping shoes clean, warming up, reading the route
  • Communication and companion checks
  • Clipping stance
  • Clipping bolts and rope correctly
  • Falling - down climb for safe fall when required, falling with a dynamic body position, preventing the rope from interfering with a fall
  • Movement techniques
  • Ancho set up for top roping
  • Techniques for being lowered and abseiling off the route from the top anchors
  • Cleaning the quickdraws
COURSE OUTCOMES

Preparing For A Sport Climb

  • The knowledge to select appropriate equipment
  • An ability to select routes according to their grade and guidebook description

Belaying Sport Climbs

  • The ability to set up the rope ready for a lead climb
  • An understanding of communication as important to climber safety and the need to clarify what will be used
  • An understanding of how to spot a leader and when to do it
  • The knowledge of belay techniques with a variety of belay devices and the ability to always execute role model belaying
  • The ability to lower a climber at a safe speed and to allow them to retrieve quickdraws used on the route

Leading Sport Climbs

  • The ability to lead climb a route safely, with efficient technique, finding clipping stances and correctly clipping quickdraws
  • the ability to fall cleanly
  • The ability to set up the top anchors for lowering, abseil or for top roping while being secure at all times
  • An understanding of descent and gear retrieval methods and the skills to perform them correctly.

Someone who has these skills is considered an NZAC Sport Climber and has the skills and ability to lead and belay sport climbs.

*Course Outcomes may vary dependent on participant ability and course conditions. This is a guideline, individuals must assess their own ability after a course.

COURSE OVERVIEW

Duration: 2 days

Season: November - April

Location: Various locations across New Zealand

Course Instructors: NZAC Sport Climbing Instructor Training, NZOIA Sport Climbing Instructor, NZOIA Rock 1 with Sport climbing endorsement, NZOIA Rock 2 or NZMGA Climbing

Ratio: 1-4

Cost: Set by Sections

Progression: Ongoing personal development and trips. NZAC Trad climbing and Multi-pitch climbing courses.