A Summer For Hard Sport Climbs

While the south-west of the South Island suffers in drought-like conditions, an unusually dry Darrans summer is a rare boon for climbers. Approach tracks for crags that are often muddy bogs have turned dusty this summer and the water tanks at Homer Hut have been parched for months now. But climbers have been making the most of the stable dry weather and there have been many notable ascents.

Blood Meridian (32) at Little Babylon in particular has been popular. Beka Burberry became the third Kiwi woman to climb grade 32 with her ascent of this route, following up her good form over the summer having also climbed Caffeine (31) at Al Cap, Leviathan (30) at Wye Creek and Bogus Machismo (29) at the Cave. Beka has been an underground crusher for years and her summer form follows up on climbing multiple 29s in Nowra during spring. For a profile on Beka from back when The Climber magazine was still a thing, look here.

Beka's partner Tom Allen also came back from the Darrans with a new grade under his belt, having successfully climbed Colossus (33). While warming into that route, Tom nabbed ascents of Blood Meridian (32), The Giving Tree (31) and Prowess (29). Prior to Christmas, Tom climbed Space Boy Extension (32) and Buffy (31) at the Cave. It seems like having what is likely the best home training wall in New Zealand is paying off for Tom and Beka. Having said that, plateaus are a real thing, as evidenced by Tom's comment in regard to The Giving Tree, "Tried this when I was 20 and thought it was nails and couldn't clip the draws. Great to notice half a grade's progression over the last 12 years."

Phoebe Kenderdine continues to excel on outdoor rock. She also climbed Blood Meridian, her second of the grade after climbing the second ascent of Sunshine at Al Cap in December to become the second Kiwi woman to climb that grade. While Sunshine was given 31 by first ascentionist Jon Sedon, Phoebe thought it harder than Blood Meridian or similar routes like Caffeine, which she climbed last summer. Phoebe has also climbed Xerxes (30), No Country For Old Men (29) and Fuel (29) while in the Darrans and over summer has an impressive ticklist including Flex Luthor (30), Skinhead (30) and Chop Suey (29) in Wānaka, and Bogus Machismo (29).

Other ascents of Blood Meridian have been made by Henry Booker, Oliver Chinn, Grayson Meaclem, Jake Townshend and local legend Yuichi 'Yamaha' Nakamura. It is the first of the grade for many of them. Grayson and Oliver both hail from Canterbury and are just 17 years old, names to watch for the future. Oliver has also climbed Space Boy Extension (32) and The Enigma Machine (32) at the Cave in recent times.

Not to be outdone, down on 'the undercling wall' Isaac Buckley made the third ascent of Katalepsis (32) and then made the first ascent of a project bolted by Tom Hoyle, known as Hieroglyphics (31). Also on the Babylon right hand wall, Alec McCallum climbed Requiem (31).

Jake Townshend has also had a great summer, alongside his ascent of Blood Meridian, he has climbed Space Boy Extension (32), The Enigma Machine (32) and Buffy (31) at the Cave and Space Cowboy (30) at the Fyfe River Gorge.

Also in the Fyfe, Enzo Murray has made the third ascent of Hammerhead (31). Enzo has provided a few social media updates on his attempts on Lord Humongous, also at the Fyfe, perhaps the biggest ticket project waiting for a first ascent in the country?