Liadan Dickie Profile
Liadan Dickie is 18 year old climber from Christchurch who is improving at a fast pace. In the past 2 months she has climbed Bogus Machismo (29), Let There Be Bolts (28), and Cyrus The Great (30). Last boulder season she climbed Green Hornet (V8), Psychic Tea Lady (V7), Grand Master Flash (V7), and Boss Hog (V7).
There are relatively few women climbing these grades, so we caught up with Liadan to ask her a few questions and find out a bit more:
How long have you been climbing?
Seven years, although I only started climbing more than 1–2 times per week when I started university (two years ago).
What styles do you enjoy?
Long, crimpy face routes are my favourite, but to be honest I spend most of my time on overhanging power-endurance routes at The Cave. I love bad holds, pump-fests, and absurd toehooks. Although sport climbing is my primary love, I seasonally convert to a boulderer when The Cave starts seeping and Flock Hill starts calling. Similar to my sport climbing style, when bouldering I love crimps, funky movement, and hand-foot match toehooks.
Do you have any aspirations/goals in climbing?
I don’t really have any clear aspirations or long-term goals, I mostly just want to keep climbing as hard as I can (particularly sport climbing) and see how far I can push the grades. I tend to be more motivated by short-term goals (like a specific project), and those short-term goals kind of build up to longer-term achievements.
What's your favourite place to climb?
My favourite crag I’ve been to is definitely Little Babylon, but my favourite local place where I regularly climb would be Jane Fonda—lovely views, lovely long crimpy routes. If you asked me in winter though, I’d probably say Flock Hill.
Where are you from?
Canterbury—I grew up in a few random small towns near Christchurch and now live in Christchurch.
Do you have any climbing role models?
A few years after I started climbing, my high school outdoor ed teacher lent me his copy of Lynn Hill’s book (Climbing Free). Ever since, she’s been a bit of an idol. For the most part though, I look up to the local climbers who I see crushing (particularly other short female climbers like Erica Gatland).
What's your proudest send?
Bogus Machismo (29, The Cave)—technically not my hardest send, but definitely the climb I’ve put the most time and effort into.
Favourite climbing shoes?
I’m not much of a gear nerd to be honest—I’ve only had two ‘real’ pairs of shoes (La Sportiva Skwamas and Tenaya Latis, I’m not counting the oversized Red Chillis I started with), but so far I’m loving the Tenaya Lati.
Are there any particular climbs you’d like to do?
Short-term, my main sport climbing projects at the moment are No Country for Old Men (29) at Little Babylon, and Hyper Machismo (30) and Dracula (30) at The Cave.
Longer-term, I’d also like to do some of the harder stuff at Little Babylon—Blood Meridian (32) and Xena (33) are both pretty inspiring. I’d also like to try Angel of Pain (32) at some point, although I suspect I might change my mind on that one once I’ve tried it…
I’d also love to get over to Australia and climb Groove Train (34) someday.
Favourite climbing area?
Gotta be the Darrans.
Thanks to Liadan for her time. No doubt we'll be seeing more routes added to Liadan's ticklist in the coming months …
Photos courtesy of Paul Bulbon