Oskar Wolff Sends Fatal Flaw (V13)
Oskar Wolff has been applying his considerable strength to some hard boulders lately. After sending Fatal Flaw (V13) and a few other rarely-climbed boulders, he sent in this report:
After arriving late in Castle Hill and seeing it pour down with rain we weren’t too hopeful for the week ahead. The forecast was overcast, cold and snowing, and we knew that it would be tricky to find dry rock anywhere. The first couple of days we were unsuccessful at finding anything dry, but luckily the rain held off after that and we could climb the non-soaked rock at Quantum and Spittle. Unfortunately, the rain kept me off my projects as they stayed in the shade all day, so I decided to check out some other, less popular hard boulders. I’ve got to say I felt pretty defeated after that whole week, as the only hard boulders I did were barely taller than me, (Jabba (V10) and Pupurangi (V10)).
Despite this, I had high hopes for the two days we had planned at Flock Hill in the weekend and prayed my one remaining layer of skin wouldn’t fall off in time for the big project (Fatal Flaw, V13). Luckily, when I arrived the conditions were perfect and on my warm up attempt I did the best I had ever done. After a few goes of fluffing sequences and popping feet I finally stuck the miniscule crimp and yarted to victory. Having only taken a handful of attempts I still had some skin I needed to rip off, so I decided to check out Kiss the Sky (V10), which I had tried a few years before. This time the massive span was not much of an issue, but the dirty top out was. After a good night's rest, I decided to bring a rope and with the help of Emma’s anchor creativity I managed to give it a thorough scrub. Following this, I quickly dispatched it first try of the day. With my skin well and truly shredded, I decided to try Mortality Sequence (V11) as Mischa was already on it with a rope. After unsuccessful attempts, we decided it was too hot as the climb had been in direct sunlight for a while and we left it til sunset. When we came back the conditions were on and what followed was a quick send from Mischa, but I still couldn’t find the so-called jug that he kept raving on about. On my last good go of the day I found out that the ‘jug’ happened to be a 20mm three finger drag, but luckily I hit it perfectly and topped out the boulder. I also had some promising attempts on a couple of other boulders such as King Line (V13) and Above the Law (V13), which I will hopefully finish off next time.