Climber abseils down huge steep wall

New Routes In Fyfe River Gorge

Josh Cornah has climbed the first ascent of two fairly long-standing open projects at the Fyfe River Gorge's Intergalactic Wall. Hammerhead (32), is a steep route with unusual moves tackling the left end of the roof above Space Camp.This line was bolted by Kristen Foley a fair few years ago. It stays clean and perma-dry, Josh suggests a fresh left bicep is mandatory for success.

Belay image

Josh also cleaned and then climbed the long-neglected top section of the Megalomania project. This was the original line on the wall, established by Tom Hoyle and climbed to a half-height lower-off anchor at grade 25. The continuation, according to Josh, involves some V5 moves through a bulge and thin tufa immediately following the lower-off anchor. After this, there is a good rest and then pumping on big tufas to the top. Josh thought it went at 29, but also suggested it could be anywhere in the range 27–30. This is partly because it is a near 50m overhanging route on a fairly continuous tufa feature, not exactly a common style for New Zealand. Get on it and see what you think.

There are a few more impressive projects still to be done in the Fyfe, most notably the Lexington Road project in the Factory and Lord Humungous on the Dark Side. 


Photo: James Morris.