Your Next Shell Will Be Different: Here's What to Expect
14/4/2026
For the past 30 years, the waterproof performance of alpine shells has been built on a chemical foundation most climbers never thought about: PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances, often called 'forever chemicals'). Extraordinarily effective at repelling water and oil, PFAS have been central to both the waterproof membranes and the durable water repellent (DWR) coatings that make hardshell jackets function.
That foundation is being pulled out. Legislation in several US states and the European Union has banned or is phasing out PFAS from apparel. California's Assembly Bill 1817 and New York's equivalent law both took effect January 1, 2025, covering most textile categories. It's worth noting that California's bill contains a specific carve-out: 'outdoor apparel for severe wet conditions'—which includes alpine hardshells—doesn't face mandatory compliance until January 1, 2028. But that nuance has barely slowed the industry. Manufacturers unwilling to maintain separate product lines for different markets—and increasingly aware of the reputational risk of selling 'forever chemical' gear—have largely moved ahead anyway. Whatever ships to California and Europe ships to New Zealand.
The shift affects two distinct parts of your jacket, and they're behaving quite differently.
The Membrane: Better Than You Might Fear
The waterproof-breathable membrane—the thin laminated layer that stops rain while allowing vapour to escape—has historically relied on expanded polytetrafluoroethylene (ePTFE), a fluoropolymer. Gore-Tex, which dominates the high-performance end of this market, spent years developing an ePTFE-free alternative.
The result is Gore-Tex ePE (expanded polyethylene), first introduced in 2021 and now available in Gore-Tex PRO ePE form—the high-performance construction increasingly used in alpine-specific shells. By 2025, brands including Arc'teryx, The North Face, Patagonia, Norrøna, Rab, Mammut, and Mountain Hardwear all had Gore-Tex PRO ePE products in their alpine lines.
The headline finding from independent testing is reassuring: membrane performance is essentially indistinguishable from traditional Gore-Tex PRO. Gore-Tex PRO ePE maintains 28,000mm+ waterproof ratings and passes the same Storm Test. Blind tests with professional alpine athletes and guides—testing prototypes in severe mountain conditions—have consistently found no meaningful difference in weather protection or breathability.
There's a practical bonus for mountaineering and technical climbing: ePE membranes are lighter than ePTFE, which allows manufacturers to increase the denier of the face fabric without adding overall weight. Better abrasion resistance for the same pack weight is a genuine improvement for anyone whose sleeves spend time against matagouri and rough rock.
If you're needing a new high-end alpine shell, the membrane is not a reason to hesitate in relation to these changes. Of course, older models are already manufactured and might be cheaper as a result.
The DWR: This Is Where the Difference Shows
DWR is the thin outer treatment that causes water to bead and roll off the face fabric, rather than soaking through. When DWR fails, the face fabric 'wets out'—it darkens and becomes heavy and clammy, and the jacket's breathability drops sharply even though the underlying membrane may still be watertight. Many climbers have experienced this.
Fluorinated DWR was remarkably durable and highly resistant to oils, sunscreen, and abrasion. PFC-free alternatives—now based on silicone, hydrocarbon, polyurethane, or newer polymer chemistries—perform well when fresh and clean, but wear faster under sustained use and are more vulnerable to contamination from body oils and dirt.
The practical result: your new jacket will need more maintenance than your old one. This is not a defect—it's an inherent property of current non-fluorinated chemistry, and it's manageable if you know what you're doing.
What maintenance now looks like:
Wash proactively. PFC-free DWR depends on a clean surface. Oils, sunscreen residue, and trail grime are the primary enemies. Use a technical cleaner—Gecko Guard is PFC-free and made in New Zealand—rather than standard detergent. Household detergent strips DWR and leaves residue; even 'gentle' formulations will degrade performance over time.
Use heat after washing. A short tumble-dry on low or a warm iron with a cloth barrier reactivates the coating by reorienting the treatment molecules to the fabric surface. Check your care label before applying heat.
Reproof more often. With fluorinated DWR, many climbers rarely bothered to reproof. With current formulations, plan on reproofing every season or whenever you notice the face fabric consistently wetting out (pre-season test in the shower?). Spray-on treatments (Gecko Guard are a New Zealand made non fluoropolymer option) work well for outer coatings; don't wait until the jacket stops performing in the field.
Don't ignore wet-out. A dampened face fabric still technically waterproof at the membrane level will feel cold and miserable and dramatically impairs the jacket's ability to breathe—directly affecting your thermal regulation during sustained effort. Maintaining DWR is no longer optional housekeeping; it's part of keeping your safety margin intact.
Where the Industry Stands
By early 2026, the transition is substantially complete at the premium end of the market. Patagonia achieved its 100% PFAS-free target in early 2025. Mammut, Outdoor Research, and Helly Hansen are at or near the same point. Arc'teryx has rolled out Gore-Tex PRO ePE across its core alpine line. Rab is completely PFAS free in its product line. The mid-market is catching up.
If you own older shells with fluorinated DWR, they'll continue to perform well with appropriate care, and you can extend their life with PFC-free reproofing products. Existing fluorinated DWR will wash out over time regardless, so the transition is happening by attrition even if you don't buy new gear.
The bottom line for New Zealand alpine climbers is this: the membrane is as good as it's ever been, and likely better/lighter. The outer surface needs more attention than you may be used to giving it. Budget some time at the start of each season for a proper wash and reproof, and autumn is a great time for gear maintenance.
More on gear maintenance: Nikwax care guides